Above the Glacier Sea

The 4.273 m high Finsteraarhorn towers majestically above a unique glacier world at the heart of the Swiss Alps, far from a trace of civilisation. During the final phase of their X-Alps preparations Chrigel Maurer, Patrick von Känel and Sepp Inniger grabbed an opportunity that doesn’t present itself every day. They were able to soar from ridge to ridge, making their way to the Finsteraarhorn; and then fly over the top. This is a story where spontaneity and some luck combine to make an unforgettable day’s flying.

No, it wasn’t planned to fly over the top of the Finsteraahorn (4,273 m), the highest peak of the Berner Oberland. Actually, Chrigel wanted to make a mountain tour to the Mönch (4,107 m) with Patrick and Sepp, then glide down to the valley from this peak. This would be something nice to do immediately before the start of the 2019 X-Alps  – collect some positive energy, tank up on power for the approaching race; simply enjoy a great flight with friends. But it all turned out differently.

The three took the last train to the Jungfraujoch, and hiked along to the Mönch hut (3,650 m). During supper they joked about how nice a sundowner flight would be: for once not in front of the famous three Swiss Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau giants, but directly behind them in this remote glacier world, working your way upward in the wind. Watch the sun slowly disappear behind the summits, land and return to the hut for dessert. A dream: a dream of any pilot…

Then it just happened - the dream. There was no planning, but suddenly the wind was on. The fun became reality, the moment seized. The three decided on an immediate soaring session between main course and dessert. They laid out right next to the hut, took off and soared until the sun disappeared. “That was the nicest flight of my flying career so far”, said Sepp. “It wasn’t that long, but to be able to soar so high in the evening was really an indescribable feeling.”

During dessert there was the weather check for next day. Strong north east wind. Too strong to take off from the Mönch (4,107 m), and from the wrong direction anyway. End of morning dream glide down to the valley. There’s a brief period of helplessness, then we rescheduled. “We decided to climb up to the Walcher ridge instead and fly north from there into the valley”, remembers Chrigel. They set out for the takeoff at 6 the next morning. First sunbeams are already visible. The sunlight still feels cold, but the cloudless blue sky and climbing yellow ball provide encouragement. Anticipation of the flight builds, and a second breakfast awaits way down below.

Pull up, lift off, glide. Float down to the second breakfast – or perhaps not? It’s working already - we are climbing - and how it’s working! Within 12 hours of the plan the pilots have to revamp it again: instantly. The wind component up here on this early morning is perfect. Without a conference Chrigel, Patrick and Sepp head southwards along the Fiescherhorn group. Early morning soaring. They gain height. The sun makes its way further above the horizon, now sharing its heat. With the wind behind them their route high above the ridge takes them towards the Finsteraarhorn (4,274m). This is one of the most remote places in Switzerland.

A landing on the glacier somewhere below would be fatal. Not just because of the immensely deep and sometimes hidden crevasses between the ice blocks, but also the isolation. On foot it would take a whole day to reach the refuge hut (if you were so lucky), says Chrigel. Their present altitude quickly swept away such dismal thoughts. They flew over the summit together. The cross on the top looked tiny, the individual blocks of the glacier no longer discernable. A single white ocean. The view over the Swiss mountain world encourages the mind to wander, dreaming, and then back to the altitude: 4,400 metres above sea level; at 7 in the morning. Incredible.

In retrospect, Patrick was fascinated by the fact that, above all, “we were able to cruise without problem, quite unexpectedly, high over the Finsteraarhorn as if this was completely normal. For this incidental group of pilots, three friends without any expectation, to have been so randomly rewarded by the chance conjunction with place and weather was something rather special.” And Sepp: “The Finsteraarhorn flight certainly topped the previous evening’s delightful surprise. Difficult to believe! My two best flights, by far. A privilege to experience such a thing. Just pure enjoyment. Pure joy.”

The conclusion? “Today’s addiction to communication and way of doing things wants to plan and control every instant of time. But spontaneous decision-making, the ability to adapt instantly to circumstances, is even more important. Take spontaneous coincidences on board and enjoy them”, is Chrigel’s advice. From a risk-averse easy-gliding pilot’s view this flight was beyond superlative. An unplanned experience which no one can take away from you. The changing weather was spontaneously accepted and made use of. Away with the planned, safety-guaranteed plan, and on with the offered adventure. An adventure right here at home, in amongst these Swiss 4000m giants: lonely and impossibly impressive. Chrigel remembered similar situations during his previous six X-Alps exploits: “There are situations where you don’t understand what’s going on. But if it goes up, it’s going up. Don’t debate too long whether this is thermal or dynamic. Adapt to the situation and don’t try to adapt it to suit yourself.”