Climb & Fly Peru

Mountaineers and paraglider pilots Simon Blaser, Julian Zanker, Wolfgang Rainer and Peter Salzmann had big plans for their Climb & Fly trip to the Cordillera Blanca. One of them combined the Swiss-Austrian rope team with the highest mountain in Peru, the 6,768 metre Huascarán, where they were to fly and climb a big wall. Strong wind and difficult conditions ensured something of an adventure.

There are more than 50 mountains over 5,700 metres in the 180 kilometer long Cordillera Blanca, the highest of the Americas’ mountain ranges. The highest peak in this so-named White Chain, and Peru, is the 6,768 m high Huascarán. It was one of the Swiss-Austrian mountaineering quartet’s goals, but storm and one team member’s health problems put paid to this summit. Even so the four alpinists took to the air during their stay in Peru. Peter reports:
“After we had made all preparations in the 3,052 m high town of Huaraz we took all of our equipment, with the help of five donkeys, up to basecamp (4,350 m) in the Ishinca Valley. One of the things we wanted to do from here was to climb the Tocllaraju (6,032 m). But first we had to further acclimatise ourselves with the altitude and the local wind system.

For two days we waited in vain for a valley wind. A strong regional easterly system prevailed, which reinforced the glacier wind, blowing strong and gusty air down and out of the valley. We began to record the wind figures and then tried to spot suitable flying conditions based on the results.

The wind would set in abruptly at around 9 in the morning, pick up in strength and turbulence during the day and only subside in the evening. The last half hour of daylight looked the most promising. We decided to climb the 5,350 m Urus Este for an evening flight.

Against every mountaineering rationale we set out at midday. Thanks to few technical challenges and an almost fissure-free glacier this was possible without problem. However, we picked up a few questioning looks from opposing alpinists on the way down.
Shortly before sunset, as four paragliders glided into basecamp against the impressive glacier backdrop, the looks on their faces altered somewhat. We got the wind right. When we had reached the summit a light east wind prevailed and the air was virtually smooth. Perfect takeoff and flying conditions. We were infused with the sense of joy and motivation. It was a first takeoff from over 5,000 m for all of us.”

Simon and Julian climbed on the north wall of the Ranrapalca (6,162 m) in the Ishanka valley and Peter with Wolfgang had climbed up the Ishinca (5,530 m), but both teams had not taken off because of too much wind, so they changed plans with a stopover at Huaraz in the Paron valley. There they climbed the 750 m long Bigwall (6b/A0) of La Esfinge (5,325 m) rock formation. The final tour on the Huascaran Sur (6,768 m) had to be abandoned because of one member’s health problems and critical weather conditions. But they were able to shorten the long descent using the paragliders. Too much wind was also the main problem in the days that followed.

Again Peter and Wolfgang used the remaining time in Huaraz for an ascent of the Vallunaraju (5,684 m). They started at midnight in order to conquer the 1,600 metre climb, and reached the summit one hour after sunrise. There was no wind! They laid out the gliders in a flat calm and took off directly into sun, heading north east. Their flight in absolute smoothness led past impressive glaciers and rock formations direct to Huaraz. Following 2,700 metres of descent they landed on a football field on the outskirts of this 119,000 population town. “We did not actually achieve our real goal – to fly from Huascaran Sur – however we can look back on an interesting time with many new experiences and other successes”, Peter explains.