Magikistan

Christina Kolb and her partner Alain Lehoux took on a Vol-Biv voyage of discovery in spring 2018 through Tajikistan. They discoered their limitations, both as a traveling and flying team, but they were entranced by the great flying potential of this country and its people – as well as the appeal of the unknown. Despite the hardships of the land of the Tajiks they will be back. Christina tells her story.

“I’d long dreamt of traveling in unknown far away countries with my paraglider. Our choice finally fell on Tajikistan; above all because 90% of the land is mountainous, but also because the Garm valley, which crosses the whole country from east to west, looks great for flying.

My partner Alain and I made some plans. Alain took something of a spontaneous approach to the job, but I took over a year finding out about the country and its residents. I also wanted to make sure that we would have something to live on other than just fermented horses’ milk and lamb or mutton.

Trekking food for two weeks, clothes, hiking poles, solar panels, cameras, telephones, chargers, batteries, a selection of cables and, of course, our new Omega X-Alps 2: all together we had 26 Kg of baggage each.

With such heavy packs it quickly became clear that our trip would be no picnic. To get into our harnesses we had to get down on all fours, then push ourselves up by leg power. An exhausting trial of strength.

Once in the air this hard work paid off. It is incredible how a good flight can change your outlook on life. Our first Tajikistan thermal took us quickly to 3,500m and then we had to decide: should we go straight into the Garm valley - over the rough rocky passes - or take the safer south variant, above gently rolling green hills?

My decision was the safer route, which Alain was not totally happy about and – as we were to find out – would cost us two potential flying days. However: Alain and I had already decided we would stay together for the whole adventure so we set off for the nice hills.

Tajikistan already had a few surprises waiting for us. It was not unusual for what looked like an easy 2 hour hike to turn into a wearisome all day mission, thanks to deep ravines and extensive hills. And, despite the circling birds, the thermals were often too weak for climbing. Landings in valleys were often more frequent than we had hoped.

Also the local meteorology gave us problems. For example, instead of thermals going up on the south side in front of our takeoff site, we might have puny rotor clouds above us, while on the opposite north-facing side were nice cumulus versions. We never worked out what was going on here.

There were also positive surprises. When, two days after our first big flight, we at last took off in the right place at the right time, we could climb straight to 4,200m and head east along the Garm valley. There we had unbelievably smooth thermals: I was surprised at the 6 or 7 m/s showing on my vario. If only this had continued!

Instead, next day we woke in the middle of a storm system that kept us almost a week in our bivouac at the next takeoff. This did not do our morale much good - but we toughed it out. And, actually on the day we decided we would have to walk down, the weather changed at last.

It was clear that we would not fly as far as we originally calculated. After our week-long bad weather camping holiday we lacked the energy and courage for a daring flight into the Pamirs. If you fly there you have to take off early in the morning and stay in the air until dusk - the wind is too strong for landing in between.

Despite – and because of – all the surprises, Tajikistan already appealed to us, we will return. The hospitality and openness of the people was just too nice, the scenery too perfect – and the flying, when it worked.”