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Deep into the Caucasus

Bivouac flying cannot be planned

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Arrested by the border police, cared for by shepherds and cruelly swept earthwards by the wind: Robert Blum and Andi Egger found out how rugged, lonely and challenging a vol-biv adventure in the Caucasus can be. More than once the two Germans reached their limits in Georgia when wind and weather tore up their original plans. And this, despite the fact that the two were old hands at vol-biv who had already pioneered a number of completely new routes in exotic countries.

On foot, with glider and tent: from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea, 1,500 kilome­tres along the Caucasus. That had been Robert’s dream for ten years. Political instability had prevented such a project from happening or a long time, so in the meantime Robert came up with a vol-biv challenge with Andi. The pair had opened spectacular routes in the high Atlas in Morocco, and flown in the Himalayas. Now the time had come to put the Caucasus plan into action.

„In August 2019 we arrived at Kutaissi in the middle of the night. A kind priest took us to the town at dawn – our first contact with Georgia and already we were impressed by the people’s helpfulness. In an unbelievably hot bus we continued to Zagerie. We sat on rice sacks like the locals. We climbed on foot to a 2,000m take-off where we planned to begin the bivouac adventure. Our shoulders ached and the sweat ran."

Andi Egger

No flying in Russia

Robert and Andi had tried to arrange some sort of authorisation in advance for the Russian part – without success. The original plan, to fly from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea, was not allowed on the Russian side. They had to replan and decided for a shorter, 800-kilometre trip through Georgia and Azerbaijan.

„We flew along 5,000m mountains past numerous glaciers. The terrain was extremely impressive. After six hours’ flying we managed 110 kilometres. But the weather was not on our side. It kept on raining and we had to look for shelter. With some luck we found a small cave."

Robert Blum

Plan, replan, start again

Over and over Robert and Andi were thwarted by the weather. More than once they returned by bus to the capital, Tiflis. Their dream of a west-to-east crossing of the Cau­ca­sus had to be abandoned, so they replanned their trip, and decided to cover as much of Georgia as they could by vol-biv in the time remaining. A zig-zag route through the country emerged. They hitch-hiked to the Kakheti region in the east of the country, and managed to get from the low hills to the high mountains by foot and glider.

„When we got into the air again the sun was shining nicely on the western slopes, but the clouds above did not bode well for this route. Sink punished us without mercy and washed us down 1,500 metres. The ravine got ever closer – as did the trees. We landed on a rocky slope. Fortunately we were both OK.“

Andi Egger

Alone in the wilderness

The pair were permanently and totally isolated as they travelled. They had their food and water – up to 5 litres per person per day – with them. They mostly slept in the tent, sometimes in caves. Now and again they met shepherds, and once again experienced the overwhelming hospitality of the wild. Here they were given cheese, vegetables, stew and firewater; even though the nomads have little for themselves. They flew whenever possible. Sometimes they were on foot for days on end, because of the constant rain.

„It stops, we glide away, along a long valley to the north – towards Russia. We often have to fly through thick cloud, steering by compass in the whiteout. Suddenly a hut emerges. Andi lands first, and the locals immediately hand him over to the border police. They want to see our authorisation. Authorisation? We don’t have any. So, first hide your passports and come with me. After two hours in the hut we get our authorisation, and can spend a week in the Russian border area. We are in luck.“

Robert Blum

A point of honour

Wind and weather cannot be planned. Robert and Andi could not complete the planned route from west to east in one trip, but the adventure factor on their zig-zag trip through Georgia was all the greater. It‘s a matter of honour that the two passed on their experiences to another German expedition who wanted to tackle the same project practically at the same time. They were finally able to realize part of Robert‘s dream, having better luck with the weather. But – thanks to the information from Robert and Andi – in the opposite direction.

The Equipment

XI

XI

Allround Tourer

LIGHTNESS 3

LIGHTNESS 3

Ready to Transit

The Team