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The 3,000+ metres high granite needle on the rim of the Patagonian Ice Sheet exerts a strong attraction for alpinists. This spectacular rock tower is considered one of the most difficult and at the same time most beautiful peaks in the world because of its steep, smooth walls and icy upper section. The trio of Roger Schäli, Mario Heller and Pablo Pontoriero not only want to climb the mountain: they want to take off from the top.
There's hardly a mountaineer who hasn’t heard of Patagonia. The famous Cerro Torre has long been known as the “impossible” mountain. In some circles it’s also referred to as one of the world’s most difficult peaks – because of the permanently bad weather and strong wind. So no one even dares to even think of climbing it, even once. So what has this got to do with paragliding? Sometimes, very occasionally, the weather is quiet. The normal stormy wind does go to sleep, and more and more paragliding pilots dream of paragliding in Patagonia. The trio of two Swiss, Roger Schäli and Mario Heller, and Argentinian mountain guide Pablo Pontoriero, had the same idea.
The Cerro Torre rock needle
In Patagonia you have to be patient, waiting and hoping that a favourable weather window will show up. The waiting and hoping can turn out longer or shorter. “We have a five day window coming up”, reports Roger, “and I’ve had a dream. Might it be possible to take off from Cerro Torre? Is it worth taking the paragliders?” Like most dreams, this one starts small. "We’ve packed our rucksacks and expect to take three or four days to reach the summit," summarises Mario. How heavy the rucksack is? “I’ve not weighed mine and don’t really want to know… perhaps about 15 kilos?” He laughs and shakes his head. "Luckly, the flying equipment part is only 2 kg and takes little space."
A long way
To begin with, the landscape is delightful, the hiking trail winds through the southern bays; always slightly uphill. Here and there is a clearing, sometimes even a stream. As the three continue to walk, the closer they get to the Passo Macroni and so to the inland icefield. This stretches over several hundred kilometres through Argentina. The landscape changes, the charm gives way to snow and ice. For a day and a half they laboriously trudge through the snow to the beginning of their ascent route. There they meet two Argentinian rope teams, who also want to try their luck on Cerro Torre; without the paraglider. Climbing conditions on the mountain are very demanding. Roger, Mario and Pablo join forces with these rope teams. By climbing as one big team, they can divide the leadership work among themselves. One climbs in front and the others are belayed from above by the rope. Food is also shared and snow melted into water for the whole group. Three individual rope teams form one large team with the common goal: Cerro Torre. "I have never experienced such team spirit on the mountain!” says Roger.
At last. On top.
On the fourth day the alpinists reach their goal and stand on the summit of Cerro Torre. It's a breathtaking feeling! To the right is the inland ice, snow as far as the eye can see. On the left, the famous Fitz Roymountains rise out of the Patagonian steppe. Just ahead, far below, you can see the starting point of El Chalten. And our trio? "We are overjoyed and nervous at the same time, because there is another challenge ahead: the takeoff on the big rock tower. The glider will have just risen above our head when the 1,000 metre high east face falls away vertically below our feet", says Mario. Was he nervous before the takeoff?
"Yes, definitely. When you're standing at the summit after almost four days of hiking and climbing, when the launch site doesn't allow any mistakes, when you can't take an upward look at the glider.. Yes, then you are nervous", Mario laughs. Pablo took off first, then Roger. Mario brought up the rear. The other climbing partnerswaited on the summit until we had taken off and only then began abseiling down. Contrary to all expectations, the flyers enjoy an absolutely smooth glide over the breathtaking landscape.
A reunion
After landing, the three professional alpinists almost have tears in their eyes. The tension of the last few days is evident. "That was an incredibly emotional moment," Mario admits. Takeoff in the snow and landing on the grass is always special. But to be able to take off on this summit after an almost four-day tour - even more so when there are only a handful of days a year when the wind in Patagonia allows such a thing - and to land together...Yes, that must be something very special. A feeling of complete contentment. Pure happiness.
The trio pack up their wings and are back in Chalten an hour later. The other climbing partners arrive late the next day. Nevertheless, everyone is happy to be back down in the village together and to toast their joint summit success.
Roger: Aborted take-off? No way!
All in all, I went to the Torre with a good feeling. I had a lot of concern about the small launch site, but not so much for the route to the summit. But I was wrong. The conditions on the ascent were not good, the rucksack heavy as hell, the climb a long way. It was hard and demanding, I reached my limits! The icing on the cake was the challenging takeoff. Pablo and Mario are better pilots than me. I was happy that I was allowed to start in the middle. Once you pull up, there's no turning back, no second chance. Aborted takeoff? No way! All the more relief when I was finally in the air. Wow! What followed was an absolute dream flight in incredibly calm conditions!
Mario: Incredible team spirit
We climbed as a team, a big team. The non-flying rope partners, our Argentinian friends, helped us at the summit with the takeoff. It's definitely different when you know there's someone else up there waiting for you. If the takeoff doesn't work out you can abseil down with them. That gives you security. As nice as it was for us, I felt sorry for our friends. We had a great time on the ascent and now they are abseiling down without us. The way back from the Torre to civilisation is long, and they only arrived late the next day. It makes you realise once again how privileged we pilots are to have such light, compact gliders that you can easily take with you.
Roger‘s Equipment
The Team
Roger Schäli
Roger is an internationally renowned alpinist. In addition to numerous climbing expeditions all over the world, he is particularly passionate about the Eiger. He has achieved numerous first ascents there and has climbed the notorious Eiger North Face over 50 times.
Mario Heller
As a tandem pilot, Mario makes the dream of flying possible for many people. When he is not realising his own dreams, he films and photographs those of others.